I find myself coming back to one spring 2011 collection image – one that didn’t necessarily catch my eye or snag at something in my mind at first – but I’m thinking about more and more as the dead of winter drags on. Almost like a fashion brain worm. The image pops into my head at odd times, perhaps because I’m longing for warm spring weather, or perhaps because I’m reading Brideshead Revisited this week. The book is conjuring daydreams of 1920’s British countryside estates, art deco fountains ringed with boxwoods, champagne cocktails on Venetian patios and steamer cruises across the Atlantic. The image I find myself stuck on is Mario Testino’s photo of the Ralph Lauren Spring 2011 collection for Vogue.
The clothes in the image aren’t particularly my own dressing style, or even things I would normally find overly appealing. Lots of cream and ivory, lace and crochet, layers of Stevie Nicks, Victorian hem lengths and frontier sharp-shooter. But the more I study it, the more I think it’s gorgeous and charming.
I may be recalling it because recently I, along with a lot of my friends, online acquaintances and female contemporaries, are revisiting our 1990s rot grrl ideologies, sensitivities and aesthetics (I think it's time to bring back my amazing high school zine, BFF!) Knee-length pinafores, crushed-velvet empire-waist dresses, fishnets and combat boots were my uniform in high school and early college. Horn-rimmed glasses (I’ve noticed an explosion in popularity of Warby Parker frames), calico prints and peter pan collars – all things I wore nearly to death between 1990 and 1995.
The Ralph Lauren pieces in Testino’s photo, along with more from the collection, evoke a lot of those 1990s feelings and associated memories in me. The collared dresses, high-necked frocks, modest long sleeves, calico, floral lace, crochet, and dresses that look better with boots than with heels. All using five or six fabrics in two or three tone sets to create a true wardrobe. It feels like they were all designed and made for real women, women I know myself.
Lauren’s collection also contains aspects of fashion from every decade since I was born: 1970s color palette, textures (satin, suede) and long lean silhouettes; 1980s hem lines, crisp white preppiness and Dynasty-style shimmer; 1990s vintage-look slips, layering and redefining of femininity; and the 2000s “post-fashion” fashion, where cyclical trends fall apart, and “decade” style transcends decades.
And this is what I discover at the crux of this collection – an esteem for what went before it and the women who are going to wear it. A designer who has a seminal style, helped along with incredible longevity. A blending of the last 30 years into something that is classic, beautiful, memorable, and best of all: wearable.